If you’re new to flying or an experienced RC enthusiast looking to broaden your skills, venturing into new territories can feel daunting. In this feature, we gathered readers’ “novice” inquiries on topics ranging from selecting a transmitter to delving into giant scale models and invited our contributors to impart their perspectives and guidance. Embarking on this journey just got a bit simpler!
Nick Ziroli Sr., stands proudly next to his prize-winning, large-scale Beechcraft Staggerwing. This beauty is powered by a dependable gasoline engine.
I aim to pilot giant-scale aircraft. Some of my companions recommend using a sizable glow engine, while others advocate for a gas-powered option. What is your suggestion?
In my view, gas engines are the way to go for my models with a wingspan of 6 feet or more. While glow engines have seen improvements, they still lack the reliability of gas (or electric) engines. Gasoline engines are more user-friendly and certainly more cost-effective compared to large displacement glow engines. I also favor a magneto ignition over electronic ignition for its simplicity and reliability. (No additional electronics to potentially malfunction or extra batteries to charge.) While magneto engines may be slightly heavier than their electronic ignition counterparts, this weight suits my preference as I predominantly design and fly substantial warbirds. Most warbirds require a significant amount of weight in the nose. Electronic ignition engines generally have an easier hand-start, but I usually opt for an electric starter. Furthermore, an electronic engine may offer better idling, but with a properly adjusted carburetor, either type can idle reliably at low speeds. —Nick Ziroli Sr.
Is it really necessary to conduct an engine break-in?
Indeed, every engine, whether it’s a glow or gas type, 2-stroke or 4-stroke, requires a break-in period. Many manufacturers recommend breaking in the engine by flying it slowly at a rich setting. While this method can work, you lack control over the engine’s temperature or richness while it’s airborne. Bench running the engine provides complete control over its runtime, enabling you to monitor and adjust the temperature as necessary. Invest time in breaking in your engines for enhanced longevity and performance. —John Reid
Ensuring a proper engine break-in is crucial.
The primary principle in kit assembly: commence with small projects and progressively advance! (Photo by Jerry Smith)
I desire to construct a model from a kit. What initial step do you recommend? I have a preference for glow-powered airplanes.
A notable shift in our hobby since my early days is that many contemporary RC pilots lack workshop experience. Regarding building aircraft kits, I suggest starting with simpler projects and gradually progressing. Even if you have a fondness for glow engines, I recommend commencing with a moderately-sized electric aircraft and keeping the build process straightforward. Laser-cut kits are the easiest to work with due to their lock-tab alignment feature. Tom Herr at Alien Aircraft (alienaircraft.com) offers a variety of kits, and I highly endorse his products. Select a plane that matches your current piloting skill level.
Additionally, prepare a stable, flat building surface free of warping. Procure an interior-grade hollow-core door from Home Depot, set it up on sawhorses in your garage, and you’re good to go. Ensure you have essential hobby tools like a hobby knife with fresh blades, sandpaper, clothespins, modeling T-pins, a small hammer, a straight-edge ruler, CA glue, and epoxy. Adhere to the provided instructions, and if you encounter any queries, reach out to Tom or visit your local hobby outlet for assistance. Once your model is assembled, the next step involves covering it. Joining a nearby hobby club also offers a fantastic support system for completing your newly constructed kit airplane. —Gerry Yarrish
I am eager to delve into RC plane piloting but unsure where to begin. Any suggestions?
Follow these three steps to become a proficient pilot in no time.
1. Locate a nearby club and flight field (modelaircraft.org provides a state-wise listing, and a quick Google search with “RC model plane” and your town’s name also helps in identifying relevant fields). Before making any purchases, visit the field to observe whether most club members favor glow or electric aircraft; their expertise plays a pivotal role in your progression. If the choice is evenly split, electric planes make a great introductory option, but if the majority prefer glow engines, then that should be your inclination.
2. Equipped with this insight, begin exploring aircraft options. Opt for a high-wing trainer with at least a 50-inch wingspan and tricycle landing gear, ideally bundled with a radio system and power setup. If these components are not included, acquire the recommended gear without attempting to mix and match at this stage. If feasible, investing in a flight simulator along with a computer is highly advised.
3. Post constructing your aircraft and acquiring practice on the simulator, reconnect with the club. Many clubs offer flight training programs with experienced instructors, serving as your best resource for a successful maiden flight. Best of luck! —Debra Cleghorn
Flight simulators like RealFlight prove to be exceptional tools for educating and training novice RC pilots.
An instructor alongside a student RC pilot forms a formidable duo.
Is it possible to learn flying solo without external assistance?
WhileLearning to pilot an aircraft independently, especially with the assistance of flight simulations, can be achievable. However, I strongly advise novice RC aviators against attempting to self-teach. It is crucial for beginners to seek out a local aviation club or an experienced individual in their vicinity who can offer the essential flight guidance. This significantly enhances the level of safety. I highly suggest that they consider joining either the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) or, for residents in Canada, the Model Aeronautics Association of Canada (MAAC) before embarking on any RC flight training. —Rolly Siemonsen
In need of programming advice for my new computer radio.
When programming a computer radio such as the Spektrum DX8, follow these fundamental steps, which are generally applicable to other brands as well. Begin by accessing the “System Setup” menu and selecting “Model Select.” Proceed to choose the suitable model type: Aircraft (Acro), Sailplane (Glider), or Helicopter (Heli). Moving on to “Model Name,” assign a simple identification name to your model. Subsequently, set the appropriate “Wing Type” according to your model’s specifications. This section typically provides various wing settings like dual aileron servos, flaps, flaperons, elevons, etc., and allows for tail configuration setups such as dual elevator servos or V-tail. Afterwards, bind the transmitter to the receiver, connect the servos to the receiver, and verify their correct orientation. If any control surfaces move in the wrong direction, utilize the “Servo Reverse” function in the “Function” menu to rectify them. For dual rates and expo functions, refer to the model’s instructions as a starting point. —Rick Bell
Considering venturing into the world of helicopters. Should I commence with a coaxial, fixed, or a collective-pitch model?
The Heli-Max 1SQ micro quadrotor serves as an excellent introduction to helicopter flying!
Different types of helicopters, including coaxial, fixed-pitch, and collective-pitch models, can serve as valuable training aids. In my perspective, coaxial helicopters, while gentle and suitable for indoor flights, offer limited training benefits. Fixed-pitch helicopters, though less smooth compared to collective-pitch machines due to varying head speeds, boast enhanced durability. With the advent of flybarless micro collective-pitch helicopters, you can enjoy a resilient model suitable for various flying environments. It is advisable for beginners to start with a micro quadrotor and subsequently transition to collective-pitch models. Employing a reliable flight simulator concurrently can aid in skill development.
Additionally, micro quadrotors like the Heli-Max 1SQ and Blade Nano QX offer a practical training option. While not genuine helicopters, these quadrotors help familiarize pilots with helicopter control inputs, forward flight, and nose-in hovering. They are sturdy enough for outdoor flights in moderate wind speeds. —Jim Ryan
I’ve been operating my new RC helicopter for a few weeks and ponder when is the right time to detach the training gear. What are your thoughts?
Initiating RC helicopter flights with training gear is an excellent starting point, but timely removal is essential.
Through years of aiding numerous individuals in mastering helicopter flying, it has become evident that many become overly reliant on the training gear even after considerable progress in their piloting skills. Despite achieving competence in hovering and executing maneuvers, the training gear continues to be viewed as a safety net. At a certain altitude above the ground, the training gear no longer offers any substantial protection.
Initially serving as a broad surface barrier to safeguard the helicopter from ground impacts, the training gear gradually becomes unnecessary once the pilot attains a level of comfort in controlling the model’s stability during landings and takeoffs. After reaching this stage, the removal of training gear becomes imperative to prevent hindrance in skill advancement. Though the prospect of accidents can be daunting, persevering through this phase is essential for skill development. The prolonged use of training gear fosters a psychological dependence and hampers the transition to regular flight maneuvers. —Paul Tradelius
What recommendations do you have for embarking on warbird flight?
World War I-era aircraft, characterized by simplified construction and enjoyable flight characteristics, present an excellent entry point into warbird flying. Unlike the more complex World War II warbirds that involve extensive balsa sheeting and fiberglass finishing, WW I models are typically framed and covered with user-friendly materials. They also lack features like flaps or retractable landing gear, simplifying operation. Since most WW I aircraft are biplanes, equipped with basic control functions like rudder, elevator, ailerons, and throttle, they provide an ideal platform for novice pilots. Opting for a biplane design with a round engine cowl is recommended for ease of maintenance and installation. —Sal Calvagna
Getting started with RC warbird flying through World War I biplanes like the E-flite Albatros is a rewarding choice.
New to the hobby and utilizing a secondhand 72MHz radio obtained from a sale. Is upgrading to 2.4GHz advisable? Can equipment from different brands be interchanged within 2.4GHz systems?
Utilizing 2.4GHz radio systems enhances resistance to radio interference, requiring the utilization of coherent brand transmitters and receivers.
After experiencing a model loss due to interference from a fellow pilot’s 72MHz transmitter operating on the same channel during my flight, I concluded (after a few choice expressions) that transitioning to 2.4GHz was the optimum choice. Nowadays, prices are reasonable, and the array of options is extensive, making the switch to 2.4GHz a worthwhile investment. Regarding equipment compatibility, it is essential to use transmitters and receivers from the same brand since each radio brand employs a unique transmission methodology. —Jason Benson
Is it necessary to cool down my batteries before initiating the charging process again?
Indeed, it is advised, but no special measures like placing them in a cooler are required. Simply allow them to rest in a shaded area until they reach ambient temperature. High-capacity discharge/charge packs demonstrate more resilience to mistreatment, yet all benefit from a touch of tender loving care. It is recommended to charge your packs at 1C whenever feasible, avoid over-discharging them, and always aim for balanced charging when feasible while ensuring the pack’s temperature does not surpass 140F degrees. Remember that the cells in the center of the pack will cool down at a slower pace than the outer cells and will heat up more rapidly. —Greg Gimlick
Avoid recharging your LiPo packs until they have adequately cooled down.
Can I install a 30-amp speed control in my aircraft, even if it draws 50 amps at full throttle, knowing I will consistently fly at half-throttle?
It is not recommended as it imposes significant stress on the speed control components. Speed controls exhibit higher efficiency and reduced heat generation (wasted power) when operated close to full throttle. It is advisable to match your speed control to correspond with the full-throttle current of the setup. —Greg Gimlick
Ensure that electronic speed controllers are appropriately paired with the power system and the current it draws at full throttle.
What are the characteristics of a suitable beginner aerobatic RC aircraft?
My suggestion is to opt for an aircraft that embodies the positive attributes of a trainer while incorporating a symmetrical or semi-symmetrical wing. Aerobatics broaden your flight repertoire, encompassing fundamental inverted and extended vertical maneuvers. An airplane featuring a fully symmetrical wing simplifies inverted flight and necessitates less down-elevator input compared to a flat-bottom or semi-symmetrical wing. Your aircraft should display neutral stability and possess an adequate power-to-weight ratio. I particularly endorse basic Stik and Ugly Stik models with fully symmetrical wings. They boast a straightforward shoulder wing design, tricycle landing gear, and handle akin to an advanced trainer. These aircraft effortlessly execute basic IMAC maneuvers, and adhering to the higher end of the power recommendations aids in executing low-energy maneuvers effectively. —Aaron Ham
An array of ARF Stik airplanes is readily accessible today, serving as an ideal starting point for venturing into sport aerobatics.
