Cruise collections, often referred to as resort collections, have emerged as a significant aspect of the fashion calendar. They serve as an intermediary between the major Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer fashion showcases. While these collections have sometimes been seen as catering to Europe’s elite travelers, this year’s Cruise offerings included notable presentations such as Gucci in London, Dior at Drummond Castle in Scotland, and Chanel in Marseille, with another show planned for Hong Kong on November 5, 2024.
Although these collections have expanded beyond European borders, the influence of Mediterranean culture on travel and style was evident throughout the season. As we approach New York Fashion Week for the Spring/Summer ’25 collections, LUXUO delves into the importance of the recent Cruise ’25 collections and their ongoing ties to Mediterranean aesthetics, despite their global showcases.
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Understanding Cruise Collections
When contemplating traditional Fall/Winter or Spring/Summer collections, one often thinks of fantastical, otherworldly designs. Haute Couture showcases further emphasize the creative vigor of a fashion house. For the Fall 2024 Couture collections, Chanel highlighted the timeless strength of its brand, while Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli and Demna’s Balenciaga emphasized architectural and sculptural elements to convey deeper meanings. However, Cruise and Resort collections operate in a different context. While Pre-Fall collections feature classic styles, Cruise collections blend elements of both Pre-Fall and seasonal lines. Their focus on wearability enhances their marketability and appeal among consumers.
Like Pre-Fall collections, Cruise offerings incorporate brand classics and reinterpret house codes into versatile and fresh styles aimed at wider audiences. The inclusion of swimwear, lightweight fabrics, vibrant hues, relaxed silhouettes, and accessories such as sunglasses and bags reflects the romantic ideals of travel, all while emphasizing timeless, ready-to-wear fashion.
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Runways with Geographical Themes
Interestingly, among the major fashion houses featured in the recent Cruise collections, Louis Vuitton was one of the few to present its collection in the Mediterranean at Park Güell in Barcelona, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This setting drew on Spanish culture, reflected in the collection’s Catalan-inspired colors and designs that fused sharp tailoring with soft textures, all accented by distinctive Spanish touches. Available ready-to-wear staples, bags, and accessories were adorned with embroidery, fringes, and ruffles, bringing a fresh essence of travel into the mix.
Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci Cruise show at Tate Modern also made a strong impression. This collection incorporated classic Gucci elements like Horsebit ballerina shoes and creepers, along with artistic embroidery and a refreshed version of the Gucci Blondie bag. Flowing dresses and denim, along with delicate floral designs, were also prominent, featuring 3-D flower embroideries created through laser-cut organza, handcrafted sequins, and horsebit motifs in suede that honored the brand’s equestrian heritage while reimagining Gucci symbols with British tartan patterns.
As reported by LUXUO last year, Hong Kong holds significant purchasing power, prompting Chanel to strategically select Asia as a prime destination in November, after an initial presentation in Marseille. This shift from the Mediterranean to Asia is both culturally and commercially relevant, as an August 2023 Euromonitor report highlighted Hong Kong’s resurgence as the leading market for luxury goods per capita. The transition between Marseille and Hong Kong exemplifies the universal nature of Cruise collections, appealing to diverse international markets across and beyond the Mediterranean.
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Emphasizing Mediterranean Romance
The fashion industry has historically capitalized on the allure of travel, particularly framed by Mediterranean vibes, suggesting that “the grass is greener” elsewhere. This season, however, presents a shift where the resort experience is brought directly to the consumer. But what does the “Mediterranean” aesthetic truly encompass? While “resortwear” evokes images of sun-drenched beaches in locations like Marbella or Athens, it also embodies a lifestyle that reaches beyond wide-brimmed straw hats and fabrics reminiscent of Mediterranean landscapes. Cruise collections remain intrinsically linked to the Mediterranean ethos, as showcases in London, Hong Kong, Scotland, or Barcelona all convey the themes of travel and escapism that surpass physical locations.
Dior, for instance, capitalizes on its heritage by referencing the legacy of Monsieur Dior, who unveiled his Spring/Summer 1955 collection in Perthshire, Scotland. The collection incorporates Scottish motifs like the unicorn and thistle, with photographs from that era transformed into prints or used as appliqués on the edges of skirts or pea coats, creating a captivating visual narrative.
Celebrating Mediterranean Inspiration
Moreover, Dolce & Gabbana’s “Dolce & Gabbana Casa,” along with Christian Dior’s Baby Dior Autumn 2024 collection and Fendi’s exhibition at La Plaza in Puente Romano Beach Resort, all paid tribute to Mediterranean scenery. The fusion of each fashion house’s identity with the enchanting allure of freedom and idyllic landscapes underscores the fashion industry’s continued use of the Mediterranean as a source of creative inspiration, with marketing strategies suggesting, “if you can’t go to the Mediterranean, we will bring the Mediterranean to you.”
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