“We’re stepping into the heart of Bordeaux,” says Joseph Kalynuik, Head Chef of the Star Legend, as we assemble at the entrance of Marché des Capucins, the city’s largest market, originally established in 1749 and named after the Capuchin monks who once resided in the vicinity.
“In the next few hours, we’ll select fresh produce to share with everyone on board in the days ahead,” he adds.
It’s Saturday morning during our 11-day James Beard Foundation cruise through Portugal, Spain, and France. The “Shop with the Chef” excursion is a complimentary activity offered on select itineraries. Along with Chef Joseph, our group includes 20 eager guests, James Beard celebrity chef Tanya Holland, Windstar Cruises’ Director of Hotel Operations Peter Tobler, local guide Emmeline, and Emile, who assists in gathering our culinary finds into bags, boxes, and a large trolley.
“This market is a place for locals to shop and connect,” Emmeline shares, having lived in Bordeaux for 30 years. She elaborates that while the market has changed over the years, its core purpose remains constant: “to nourish the people of Bordeaux.”
Like many of us, Chef Joseph is visiting the market for the first time. “I’m on the lookout for regional flavors and delicacies that reflect the area’s culinary story,” he explains, eager to incorporate local specialties into the dishes prepared by Windstar chefs aboard.
With Emmeline’s guidance, we navigate the vibrant aisles, stopping first at a stall dedicated to ‘canelés de Bordeaux.’ Named for their fluted shape, the glass display is filled with rows of golden pastries that are sticky on the outside and soft on the inside, baked in traditional copper molds.
As the pastries are carefully wrapped, Emmeline recounts the legend of the canelés. “In the 18th century, the nuns of the Annociades Convent made these to help feed the impoverished, utilizing whatever ingredients they had like rum, vanilla, and egg yolks. The recipe faded away during the Revolution, but it has since made a comeback as a quintessential flavor of Bordeaux.”
“I’ll take 250,” Chef Joseph requests, leaving the server momentarily bewildered.
Next, we head to La Ronde des Fromages, where Chef Joseph inspects the attractive array of cheeses. “These are some beautiful options,” he observes. “Some I’m already familiar with, while others are new to me.”
After thoughtful deliberation, he chooses a selection featuring Tomme aux Fleurs, a semi-hard cheese decorated with edible flowers, a vibrant yellow Shropshire Blue, the Brebis Corse filetta made from sheep’s milk, and an enticing soft truffle brie. Witnessing Chef Joseph’s careful selection of ingredients enhances my understanding of why onboard meals are truly remarkable.
Emmeline suggests we also visit the Amandine bakery stall before they run out of bread. “This bakery has been here for over a century, and they bake using a wood-fired oven,” she informs us. A large stack of crusty baguettes quickly captures everyone’s attention, and Chef Joseph swiftly declares he wants them all.
We stand in line at the fishmonger where Chef Joseph patiently waits to purchase three large bar (bass) fish and crevettes (prawns). Afterward, we explore the rows of fresh produce, choosing seasonal fruits and vegetables. Cherries and peaches are selected, while Chef Tanya notices a micro greens stall specializing in mache—a nutty and slightly tangy cousin of arugula.
At The Pork Specialist stall, Chef Joseph’s eyes light up upon seeing gratton, a terrine that reminds him of his childhood. “This is all about ‘from snout to tail,’ where the whole pig is utilized. My grandfather used to mix in sweet onion, butter, and homemade condiments for sandwiches,” he reminisces.
The artisan olive stall proves popular, displaying tubs filled with a variety of olives—some stuffed with white anchovies, pickled garlic, slivers of lemon, or almonds, while others are marinated in herbed oils or hot pepper. After careful consideration, the chefs select an assortment of flavors to suit various guest tastes.
When our bags and boxes are overflowing and Chef Joseph’s cash supply is dwindling, we are given 45 minutes to explore the market independently. A few of us make a beeline for the quintessential Bordeaux experience: oysters and wine. Sitting at Chez Jean-Mi, a bustling market café where patrons stand in line for tables and watch as oysters are shucked right before them, I enjoy a crisp Bordeaux white while relishing each velvety oyster.
As we return to the Star Legend, the bus is filled with enthusiastic chatter. Comments like “Best excursion I’ve taken,” “This is exactly what I wanted from this trip,” and “That was fantastic” echo through the air.
In the days that follow, the ingredients sourced from Marché des Capucins enhance Windstar’s exquisite dining experience. The canelés are offered as a delightful surprise during evening turn-down service, slices of baguette can be found in the bread baskets at the Amphora restaurant, and the uniquely shaped peaches make an appearance in the breakfast fruit selection. The pièce de résistance is a spectacular presentation of local Bordeaux tastings curated for lunch over two days in the Veranda restaurant.
From the earthy richness of the truffle cheese spread on rounds of bread to the bar (bass) fish served ceviche-style, the sweetness of the cherries, the boldness of the duck sausage, the aromatic tomme aux fleurs cheese, and the simplicity of the stuffed olives, each bite transports me back to Marché des Capucins, capturing the vibrant culinary traditions of Bordeaux and the essence of ‘gate to plate.’
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