Chanel’s investment in MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends), acquiring a 25 percent stake, reflects an ongoing trend within the Swiss watchmaking industry. This move is not about larger brands overpowering smaller ones or consolidating identities and strategies. Chanel labels its investment as “strategic,” indicating a long-term perspective. The luxury giant recognizes MB&F as a “high-end creative watchmaker,” a testament to the brand’s status in the market. Max Büsser, the founder, has always highlighted that the watchmakers are the true craftspeople, with his role centered on creativity and business matters. We believe this partnership with Chanel aligns closely with Büsser’s vision, similar to how he collaborates with his “Friends” to design new watches.
When we received this news, we recalled that Chanel has been part of the MB&F story from the start. GF Chatelain, a case manufacturer and one of the initial “Friends,” has been involved in making cases and buckles for MB&F. After Chanel acquired GF Chatelain in 1993, it continued to contribute to MB&F’s production, primarily focusing on buckles. This background sets a clear context for Chanel’s latest investment, alongside its previous stakes in smaller independent brands like Romain Gauthier (2011) and FP Journe (2018). Importantly, Chanel has respected the autonomy of these watchmakers, and we anticipate a similar approach will be maintained at MB&F.
Despite the excitement surrounding this investment, many questions linger about Büsser’s intentions. He clarified his perspective during the announcement, stating, “It was our responsibility, in today’s favorable context and with our management team in its prime, to take this major step to ensure our long-term future – a natural evolution for a company celebrating its 20th anniversary next year. This investment from Chanel allows us to continue on our independent path without the pressure of growth, while also strengthening our operations by accessing their broader ecosystem and specialized suppliers when needed.”
The press release highlights that Büsser remains the majority shareholder at MB&F, owning 60 percent, while his associate Serge Kriknoc holds 15 percent. Previously, Büsser and Kriknoc were the only known stakeholders; Kriknoc’s stake remains unchanged, implying that Chanel’s share is drawn from Büsser’s holdings. Chanel’s history suggests operations at MB&F will continue smoothly, and we trust Büsser when he asserts that the company is not merely a means to maximize profits. The cherished kinetic creations from MB&F will persist, just as those from Romain Gauthier and FP Journe do. Importantly, Chanel also holds a significant stake in Bell & Ross, and company executives have consistently asserted that they have faced no pressure regarding growth. Büsser has reiterated his reluctance to involve financiers due to concerns over growth pressure, a point he has addressed in the official statement.
What is Chanel’s perspective on this partnership? Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery, expressed, “We are excited to establish a strategic partnership with MB&F, who share our values of independence, creativity, and excellence. This announcement aligns with our long-term strategy to preserve, develop, and invest in specialized expertise, reaffirming our commitment to high-end watchmaking.”
MB&F is exclusively available in Singapore through The Hourglass
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