I suppose it’s best to begin with the extraordinary blue of the sea — a hue I’ve never encountered in nature prior to this. The water was remarkably deep and radiant, stretching endlessly before me. I found myself spending hours on the deck — and indeed, I did — with my journal in hand and a glass of rosé, merely gazing at the sea. Had the entire cruise revolved around that experience, it would have been enough. Yet, a multitude of adventures awaited us.
Before we embarked, I was reminded of a beloved poem by Cavafy titled “Ithaka.” “As you sail out for Ithaka / Hope the voyage is a long one. Full of adventure, full of discovery.” My previous journey to Greece had been as a student, where I found inspiration reading Homer on the island of Crete. It struck me that a complex narrative such as “The Odyssey” could only emerge from these islands, just as Tolstoy’s sprawling stories seemed to reflect a land of vastness. Each island stands as its own episode, each with unique tales. Now, as we commenced our voyage on the Wind Spirit, we were on the brink of our own discoveries.
Athens: Much More Than Our Departure Point
My husband Larry and I arrived in Athens two days prior to our cruise, eager to adjust to the time zone and perhaps the heat. When I mentioned to a friend our trip to Greece in June, she grimaced and simply remarked, “It will be hot,” and she was absolutely correct. Despite this, we were captivated by Athens. For our first two nights, we stayed at a rooftop Airbnb that offered a stunning view of the Acropolis from our shaded terrace. Given the heat, we were quite satisfied to admire the breathtaking structure from a distance.
Athens is essentially designed around views of the Acropolis. Later, when we transferred to the St. George Lycabettus Lifestyle Hotel — our connection with Windstar and the ship — the vistas continued to feature the Acropolis, especially from the magnificent Grand Balcony. This flat plateau, inhabited for 5,000 years, has provided Athens with both a worldview and a form of security. Notably, general and statesman Pericles depleted Athens’ treasury to reconstruct it after its destruction by the Persians in 479 B.C., but the vision of beauty he had continues to resonate today.
We had researched exceptional restaurants in Athens and visited one, but ultimately, wandering the streets and discovering lively local spots where laughter echoed and platters of seafood kept coming felt far more appealing. At a charming restaurant called Strofi, I discovered the ultimate moussaka. Trust me, once tried, there’s no going back.
Due to the heat, we spent our first full day at the Acropolis Museum. It has two significant benefits: a breathtaking view of — you guessed it — the Acropolis, and full air conditioning. Yet, what struck me most was the “Elgin” marbles. The exquisite Parthenon Frieze panels are currently housed in the British Museum, having been removed by Lord Elgin in 1801. Greece has long demanded their return, a campaign that gained traction in the 1980s with Melina Mercouri serving as the cultural minister. While the fate of the marbles remains uncertain, Greece has created a poignant exhibit with plaster reproductions of the missing panels, clearly signaling where they rightfully belong.
Throughout our time in Athens, we admired the Acropolis from various lookout points, a perspective that we all welcomed. Enjoying the view from St. George was delightful, and our proximity to the sea and nearby Greek islands added to the experience. It’s evident that Athens is designed for its inhabitants to appreciate the breathtaking Acropolis from numerous vantage points throughout the city.
Wind Spirit: Our Floating Sanctuary
On Sunday, we hopped into a taxi to Piraeus with Costas, a cab driver whose features were reminiscent of a finely carved Greek statue. He spontaneously shared his affection for Athens, declaring, “Because it’s an ugly city. It makes no sense. It offers little charm — it isn’t Paris or Rome. But what I love about Athens? It has character.” His passion for Greece reminded me of the wild poet Katsimbalis from Henry Miller’s travelogue, “The Colossus of Maroussi.”
“You should be a writer, Costas,” I remarked, gazing into his animated blue eyes in the rearview mirror.
“I’m a cab driver,” he replied modestly.
Upon arriving at the Wind Spirit, we were welcomed by a friendly Greek woman named Odyssia, who assisted us through the various checkpoints and metal detectors, ensuring our documents were in order before leading us to register and receive our ship identification cards.
We were soon onboard the Wind Spirit, which was ready and waiting after completing a prior journey. The vessel is not large, boasting around 130 cabins, but it is an elegant sailing ship equipped with six sails poised to be raised.
We quickly found our cabin, which was just as I had anticipated: compact, with two portholes and a cozy queen-size bed. After settling in, we made our way to the deck for a quick meet-and-greet alongside a glass of Champagne before departure. One memorable remark overheard during this gathering came from a woman who asked our excellent Malaysian bartender where the Champagne originated. He looked perplexed and simply replied, “Champagne.”
Then, the captain’s voice boomed through the loudspeaker, announcing that it was time to hoist our sails and begin our journey. All eyes were glued to the sails as the stirring soundtrack of Vangelis from “1492: Conquest of Paradise” played in the background, and we watched the sails rise in concert with the music, guests standing as if in reverence as we set off to our next destination.
Exploring Mykonos’ Hidden Treasures
I initially anticipated disliking Mykonos. I had heard about its glamorous reputation, with notable figures like Jackie Onassis having graced its shores, and its luxury accommodations commanding prices of up to $5,000 a night. I envisioned it would be a scene reminiscent of “White Lotus.” However, when we arrived, we found it surprisingly laid-back. We stopped at a café for a refreshing drink and observed the vibrant local life: boats coming in and out, fishermen hawking their catches of the day, and a quaint farmers market buzzing with activity as shoppers examined fresh produce.
While walking around the town, I stumbled upon a charming dress shop named Bellou, run by a mother-and-daughter duo who stocked an array of linen products that I loved. Larry eventually had to drag me away, and I promised to return. But first, we aimed to find a beach. The guidebook mentioned Kiki’s, a lovely spot for a leisurely meal and swim located about five miles from town. Deciding that was what we wanted, we just needed to find a taxi, which proved rather tricky. We walked a ways until we reached the edge of town.
Then, a very attractive man, resembling Poseidon, approached us. “Are you looking for a cab?” he asked. We confirmed we were, and it turned out he owned all the cabs on the island. Although he could easily retire, he enjoyed working and going to his office daily to manage the cabs. The driver he dispatched took us through winding roads adorned with picturesque landscapes until we arrived at a sandy road leading to the beach. “I can’t go any further,” he told us. Our young driver dropped us off and promised to return in three hours, understanding that we needed to catch the last tender back.
As we walked toward Kiki’s, we noticed it wasn’t a restaurant at all — it was a simple shack. You could easily pass by it (which we did) until you catch sight of it. Upon arrival, we noticed an outdoor patio beneath an arbor by the sea, with potentially some covered inside tables, though I didn’t pay attention. We got there right as it opened, greeted by a large, burly man reminiscent of Zorba the Greek, who continuously smoked. He grumbled about how long the wait was, and when we provided our names, he informed us it would be “an hour.”
I gazed longingly at the sea and inquired, “Can we put our name down and take a swim?”
“You go,” he replied tersely. “He stays.”
This arrangement worked perfectly since I love swimming while Larry enjoys sitting and observing the world around him. As I awaited our table, I plunged into the cleanest, bluest water I’ve ever experienced. Describing the Aegean’s distinctive blue is challenging, as it feels uniquely divine. It’s difficult to articulate the tranquility of the water, the luscious air, and the gentle waves — perhaps it’s like trying to describe heaven.
I swam until I heard Larry signaling me from the Kiki’s patio that our table was ready. We savored a delicious meal of mezze and grilled squid, accompanied by refreshing Greek white wine, as we paused our busy lives for a moment. Following lunch, I returned to the water, where even Larry joined in. Even he, a non-swimmer, had to admit the water was exceptional.
At 3:45 p.m., it was time to meet our taxi, which arrived promptly. Now content and refreshed, we made our way back into town, where everything felt a bit chaotic compared to the peaceful beach. Suddenly, we faced traffic, honking horns, and bustling crowds. While wandering the waterfront, I had just enough time for a quick visit to Bellou, where I admired the blue shirt the owner wore. She lifted the front to show me how to wear it without hesitation, showcasing her bare torso.
I purchased the shirt and a dress, both of us reveling in our time at Wind Spirit.
The Enigmatic Ephesus
In Ephesus, we opted for a more unconventional approach. Through a recommendation from a friend, we hired a private guide to ensure a unique experience, including lunch at a local eatery — exactly what Gul provided. We met her at the ferry landing by Starbucks, which felt surreal after traveling so far to end up at the popular coffee chain. Gul was a lovely, knowledgeable young woman who engaged with us casually, which we appreciated.
To immerse ourselves in the site, we began our exploration from an entryway near a glass-scaled model that illustrated what Ephesus looked like in its prime. This gave us essential context as we navigated through the narrow passage of the Heracles Gate to the grand Celsius Library of Ephesus.
Experiencing the ruins of Ephesus is truly remarkable. This land has changed little since Freya Stark’s observations in the early 1950s in her work, “Ionia: A Quest.” A place where various cultures from Asia and Aegean collide, Stark reflected that “it is impossible to touch the coast of Asia Minor without hitting 5,000 years of history.”
The day would have been perfect save for the oppressive heat. After spending a couple of hours marveling at the ruins, we went to the nearby charming town of Sirince, where we enjoyed a blue tavern for a meal of mezze and salad before returning to the ship.
A Unique Destination Discovery Event at Windstar: Ephesus in the Spotlight
Since booking this trip, I had been intrigued by the Destination Discovery Event, which invited all guests for a moonlit dinner and concert under the stars in the courtyard of the former Celsus Library in ancient Ephesus, known for housing 12,000 scrolls over 2,000 years ago. This event promised to be the highlight of our journey, and it certainly did not disappoint.
After a brief rest and refreshing showers that evening, we boarded the buses waiting to take us to our dinner at the ruins. The buses dropped us off at the same place we had visited earlier that day, but this time the evening air was pleasantly cool. We strolled along a tree-lined path guiding us to the ancient library, where our dinner awaited us under the stars. Upon arrival, we were greeted with elegantly set tables and the sound of a string quartet playing from the stone steps. As Windstar guests, we enjoyed exclusive access to the library courtyard, savouring a delightful meal that included eggplant in lemon sauce, fresh purslane with yogurt, savory veal stew, and a steady flow of wine. There were no crowds and no rush — just music, exquisite food, and the enchantment of dining in such a magnificent setting. This is a night I will forever cherish.
After dinner, we walked back to the buses along paths illuminated by lights as local families meandered among the ancient stones.
A Return to the Sea
I must take a moment to highlight the swim platform available on all Windstar ships, including Wind Spirit. Out of all the activities on this cruise, the swim platform was my favorite. Being near or in the water is my passion, and I seek swimming opportunities wherever I go. The swim platform, essentially the rear opening of the ship, was located just down our corridor and was accessible contingent on the sea conditions. Sometimes the waters were too rough, but following our day in Patmos, it was open, and I eagerly donned my bathing suit to take part.
The water appeared to be an inviting playground, equipped with rafts and various toys like paddleboards. After checking in my keycard with the lifeguards, I jumped into the sea, which felt smooth and gentle. I swam joyfully until I realized I had ventured a bit too far. Perhaps it was a lifeguard blowing a whistle to guide me back. In any event, I found myself struggling against the current. Thankfully, a former Marine and two friends noticed my plight and assisted me in reaching one of the ropes. Trust me, I held on tight.
After that episode, I was content to float alongside everyone else, a fitting end to a delightful day.
Later, we managed to secure a table at Candles, Wind Spirit’s seafood and steakhouse, where we dined on deck, sipping wine while admiring the sunset and enjoying a delicious filet mignon cooked to perfection. I indulged in my new skill of simply gazing at the captivating sea.
Cherishing Santorini’s Caldera
The sight of Santorini from the sea is breathtaking. It had always been a dream destination for me, and I was awe-struck as I looked through our cabin porthole at the iconic blue domes and white buildings perched on the cliffs 1,000 feet above, bathed in that brilliant azure sky. I wished I could capture that blue in my watercolor palette! Our captain informed us that several other cruise ships would be visiting Santorini that day, potentially up to five, yet we hardly noticed them as we anchored.
As Wind Spirit gracefully entered the caldera and anchored below Fira, I stood enthralled on the deck, gazing up at the arduous switchback path and 200-plus steps trodden by residents for generations (we opted for the cable car instead). Our guide for the “Sailing the Caldera” excursion shared how locals prefer walking, albeit at a leisurely pace.
For four hours, we sailed around the caldera — essentially the crater of a dormant volcano filled with water — on a small catamaran with a dozen fellow travelers, enjoying swimming stops and a delectable lunch prepared onboard. It was a gently delightful experience.
Upon returning to the dock, we realized it was still early afternoon, and we had time to explore. The cruise ships were present, but we paid them no mind. Looking up at Fira, perched upon the cliffs, we faced a decision: return to the ship or find a way to experience the celebrated town. We often joked about a spontaneous Alaskan artist who created outdoor sculptures and whimsically said, “You’ve come this far, and now you’re leaving?”
Having traveled this distance, it felt wrong not to ascend to the town via cable car. However, the main street of Fira appeared reminiscent of Times Square on New Year’s Eve — swarming with visitors (recent news reported that Santorini is requesting caps on daily tourist admissions). We all make travel blunders, and despite my good sense, we stumbled into a mistake. Opting to leave, we sought an easier route. The queue for the cable car stretched into the hundreds under the glaring sun. Renting donkeys felt too touristy for my liking. So, I enquired with a local how long it would take to walk the steps locals have traversed for years. “Fifteen to 20 minutes,” was the response.
We set out under the scorching sun, but the ancient, slippery stone steps littered with donkey droppings boasted no railings. Twenty minutes into our descent, I found myself barely making progress and regretted not turning back. Feeling increasingly ill, I insisted I couldn’t continue.
“Take off your hat,” Larry advised, pouring water into it. “Put it on your head.” Drenched and somewhat dazed, we continued down the 250 steps. How difficult could this possibly be? Well, it turned out, quite challenging. I’m certain no locals were making this trek in the intense afternoon heat. After 90 minutes, we finally arrived at the bottom. Long story short: Next time, opt for the cable car or a donkey, or simply participate in shore excursions that dodge the midday sun as the Greeks do.
Upon reaching the foot of the stairs, I collapsed into a chair of a convenience store where Larry procured additional water. Nearby, a small wire-haired dog lay basking in the heat, clearly the owner’s cherished companion. The overflowing crowds pushed past as tourists paused, contemplating the dog’s plight in the heat and wondering if he was okay.
Clearly, just like the locals of Santorini, he had mastered the art of pacing himself.
Nafplio: A Joyful Discovery in Greece’s Peloponnese
Nafplio, our final stop, was a delightful surprise. The shopping scene was vibrant, featuring charming stores selling honeypots, worry beads, and linens — an essential clothing material in Greece. We enjoyed a leisurely day, starting with a stroll through a farmers market, where we admired neatly arranged fig leaves, each graced with a lemon atop. We bought peaches and grapes, and visited a shop exclusively selling worry beads. The saleswoman passionately shared information regarding their significance and stress-relief properties, leading us to make purchases for ourselves and loved ones back home. Before lunch, we snagged a pretty honeypot and then treated ourselves to a delightful seafood meal along the waterfront.
That evening, with our hearts and stomachs full, we sailed from Nafplio, honey pot in hand, headed for our final port of call, en route back to Piraeus, Athens, and ultimately home. Our “Odyssey” was nearing its conclusion. Once again, the captain addressed us over the intercom, signaling that it was time to hoist the sails. However, this time, instead of Vangelis’ music, we were treated to the melodious voice of Andrea Bocelli singing “Con Te Partiro.” It was a poignant farewell to a wonderful journey that will linger in my memory for years to come.
As all odysseys do, we returned to Cavafy, who concludes his poignant poem with these lines: “Ithaka gave you the marvelous journeys / Without her you would not have set out.”
For this, I am sincerely thankful. I’m overjoyed that we embarked on this remarkable journey.
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