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We’re discussing self-made brakes. Why? Because substantial caravans necessitate superior tow-vehicle brakes. Here’s the method to enhance your braking system with a day spent using tools for safer towing.
Without a doubt, the tasks we require our tow vehicles to perform go beyond what the engineers who design them could imagine. Certainly, the vehicles themselves can technically handle 3500kg on the tow ball, but nothing comes without consequences. With a caravan attached, your beloved vehicle won’t stop or accelerate nearly as efficiently as it does when empty. And halting? Not even close.
In an ideal situation, the camper or caravan brakes should be managing the load at the rear while your towing vehicle is only concerned with itself, but perfection is not always achievable. Lengthy descents, sudden braking scenarios, or even a somewhat mellow brake controller can all result in your towing vehicle’s brakes bearing more weight than they should. This issue may go unnoticed until they’re overheating halfway down a lengthy slope.
The assignments – a vintage 80 Series ‘Cruiser
We recently obtained an aged 80 Series ‘Cruiser with intentions of spending extended weekends at the marina and longer getaways in the wilderness with a camper, and it swiftly became apparent that the stock brakes were insufficient – as were the stock engine, gearbox, seats, and suspension – but that is beside the point. Therefore, before hitching up the trailer, we decided to rectify this matter.
We assessed various options for increased braking power but concluded that the Ultimate 4WD Brake Upgrade Kit from Bendix would offer the most value for this personal braking project. Provided as a comprehensive kit, it contained all the necessary components such as rotors, pads, brake lines, and fluid. Plus, the conversion into a cooler afterward was an added benefit that was hard to resist. This is how we accomplished the task.
Phase 1. Verify you have everything required – including the capabilities
On a scale of 1-10 in terms of DIY complexity, a brake replacement typically falls around the 6 or 7 range for several valid reasons. The actual procedure is rather straightforward. The components are usually interchangeable, so if you are adept with tools and feel capable of changing shocks, you should be able to replace your brakes. However, if you lack confidence, it would be wiser to leave it to the experts.
It is essential to note that your towing vehicle will be out of commission once you commence the operation. There’s no popping over to the parts store for fluid in case you run out. You could compile your own kit, but we found the Bendix package to be convenient since we knew everything we required was included.
Phase 2. Determine your course of action
Whether you have a 300 Series or an 80 Series, items like brake lines, pads, and fluid are all somewhat similar for a DIY brake upgrade. However, there may be subtle distinctions that could catch you off guard. For our ‘Cruiser, the rotor is mounted at the back of the hub. Consequently, we had to completely dismantle the wheel hubs, encompassing bearings and all, to replace the rotor. Conversely, other rotors are attached by the wheel itself. It is imperative to be aware of the exact procedure in advance to ensure you have the correct tools and components on hand before delving halfway into the job.
Phase 3. Mount the rotors
With the hubs disassembled, we were able to loosen the bolts securing the old rotor, remove it, install the new rotors, and secure them in place. This is an opportune moment to utilize brake cleaner (provided in the kit) and thoroughly clean all components. Remove any accumulated rust particles, grease, or general road residue.
There are various opinions regarding rotor bolt lubrication, ranging from grease to Loctite, yet we have consistently had success with a smidgen of anti-seize and adherence to specified torque. As observable, the Bendix discs exhibit venting akin to standard rotors but also feature dimples and cross-slots. This design not only enables efficient heat dissipation but also eliminates brake dust and gases from the pad surface. Put simply, your towing vehicle will halt more effectively and sustainably.
Phase 4. Begin working on the calipers
A comprehensive science is involved in brake pad formulation, with the manufacturer striving to strike a balance between noise, durability, braking efficacy, and performance under various conditions, such as loads, intense heat, cold temperatures, without damaging the rotors in the process. These factors are crucial in executing repetitive smooth stops with your towing vehicle and trailer.
The Ultimate pads met all these criteria and were included in the kit, making them an obvious choice for a personal brake upgrade and installation. The pads are propelled by pistons on opposite sides. As the pad material diminishes, the pistons draw nearer together, ultimately making it impossible to fit the new pads. We scrubbed the calipers to eliminate years of grime, used a piston separator to create some space, and inspected the piston rubber boots while at it.
Phase 5. Initiate reassembling
With the old components discarded, it’s time to begin piecing things together again and search for the end of the tunnel. With the pistons still extended, reinstall the brake calipers,
making sure the bleed screw is positioned at the top. Adding a touch of anti-seize on the mounting screws will facilitate future tasks and enable you to tighten the screws to the required specifications. Remember to avoid any contact with the brake components.
You’ll find some brake lubricant in the package which you can apply to the sliding pins to keep them functioning smoothly. Use the wipes provided to clean the rotors and remove any foreign substances, then insert the pads, any locking mechanisms, and proceed to the following step.
Step 6. Fitting the new lines
Originally, your towing vehicle would have been equipped with flexible rubber brake lines connecting the rigid lines on your chassis/differentials to the calipers. Over time and exposure to harsh environments, these lines can dry out, develop cracks, and deteriorate. Eventually, they may fail, leaving you with ineffective brakes, and in the meantime, they could cause performance issues too.
When you engage the brakes, some of the force is absorbed by the lines expanding. The braided brake lines included in the kit not only have a significant age advantage over the ones you’re replacing but also do not expand, resulting in more efficient force transmission to the brakes and an improved pedal response. Replacing the brake lines is a straightforward DIY procedure. You’ll only need a brake line wrench and a pair of pliers to uninstall the old lines and set up the new ones.
Step 7. Purging the brakes
The Bendix kit we acquired includes several bottles of brake fluid, but you’ll also need to purchase transparent tubing and a set of brake line wrenches. With a wrench on the bleed screw and the tube attached, have your assistant press the brake pedal 5-6 times, then hold it down. Loosen the bleed screw, and a mixture of air, debris, and old fluid will discharge. Once it stops, tighten the bleed screw and repeat the process until only fresh, clear fluid flows through without any air bubbles. Start bleeding from the point farthest from the brake master cylinder and work your way closer, ensuring you keep replenishing the master cylinder with clean fluid. If it runs low, you’ll need to restart the bleeding process.
Step 8. Reap the rewards of your efforts
Congratulations if you’ve reached this point without seeking professional help. Upgrading your brakes is beneficial for every towing vehicle. Whether it’s the immediate enhanced responsiveness when applying the brakes or the improved heat resistance and reduced brake fading during long downhill descents, your towing experiences will be significantly enhanced. The final step is to bed in the brakes. There are various techniques for doing this, but taking your camper or caravan for a spin out into the bush might just be a perfect two-in-one solution.
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